Christmas in New York with Kids

If you’ve ever dreamed of being in one of the most magical places on earth during the most magical time of the year – and you want to do it with the kids – let me tell you, it’s possible. In fact, it’s incredible. New York City in the month of December is like walking through a snow globe of wonder and lights (and yes, very frigid temps). 

There’s giant ornament statues and lit-up window displays on every corner that draw you in to buy whatever it is they’re selling. There’s pop-up food markets and decorated restaurants and HELLO – the ROCKETTES! There’s Santa Lands and skating rinks and hot cocoa and high energy.

New York City during Christmastime was a bucket list item for our family. While I was nervous to face the crowds and cold with three kids, I knew it would be 100% worth it. And standing here on the other side with amazing memories and another bucket checked off the list, I was completely right.

NYC is a blast any time of the year, with pizza and shopping and architecture, the allure of all of that “normal” stuff being covered in holiday lights is indescribably cool. And we simply had to see it for ourselves. So we picked a long weekend, booked some plane tickets, and headed to the Big Apple mere days before Christmas.

Here’s a breakdown of how we spent the limited amount of time we had in one of the biggest cities in the world.

Day 1: 

We landed in the newly-remodeled LaGuardian Airport (seriously, my kids still talk about how beautiful this place was compared to other airports) around lunchtime on December 20. 

Our Uber ride took about an hour from the airport to our hotel in Manhattan. We stayed at the Hyatt Place New York/Midtown-South in Koreatown, which was an amazing location at Christmastime (really all that means is we were right by many of the best of the best winter food markets. Love me some vacation food!) We were also a stone’s throw away from Bryant Park ice skating and tons of great shopping. Plus it was one of the only hotels in NYC that has enough space for five of us to comfortably sleep. Space in Manhattan is tight. And real estate is pricey, duh.

Excited to introduce the kids to the city, we dumped our bags quickly and headed out to find some holiday magic. First stop – food (see? I told you). Since it was late afternoon, the Bryant Park Winter Market was already pretty packed, so we decided to head to the Macy’s Winter Square instead. Best. Decision. Ever.

This market was new this year and it did not disappoint. Far smaller than other “established” markets, it offered a huge variety of cuisine and shops, all in a convenient lineup of booths right outside Macy’s (which is also knockout gorgeous at Christmastime). We tried the French fries from Home Frite and the Alfredo noodles from Cheese Wheel Pasta, which was incredible and made right in front of our eyes in an actual cheese wheel! Food was quick, but expensive. That’s just a theme in NYC, so that’s the last time I’m going to mention it.

As we were standing right outside the famous Macy’s on 34th Street (MIRACLES happen here!), we decided to head inside to check out the hubbub. And hubbub it was! The carolers were beautiful and really got me in the Christmas mood. But my gosh was this store crowded. It was 8 floors of shopping and decor and – thankfully – free warm bathrooms. My kids decided they weren’t interested in doing Santaland here, which I appreciated as I’ve heard it can be a line hours long. (If visiting Santa is something you’re interested in doing, I recommend making a reservation online as soon as they are available. Reservation or not, you will still likely wait in line.)

I excitedly shopped the ornaments, but the kids were department store’d out so we called it done. I got my Macy’s at Christmastime fill and am happy I saw it once.

It’s worth saying, it gets dark very early in December in New York. At 4pm, the sky was a navy blue and the lights were really poppin’. This made for an incredible first evening just roaming the area around the hotel. We shimmied through the Bryant Park Market outskirts and snapped a pic in front of their large lit-up tree, watched people ice skate, found the stand with the “famous” hot chocolate (line was stupid long. Decided against it), and skidaddled outta there.

I pointed out the New York Library to my book-loving daughter (if it were just she and I on this trip, we would’ve spent hours in there) and we passed a few public bathrooms, which are more available during winter market season than other times of the year. But they aren’t pretty. And of course, we stopped at a small street vendor for beverages and candy.

We kept walking and found ourselves in the Rockefeller Center area. This made everyone very happy. Warm buildings to pop in and out of, a Nintendo store (gotta play some games), and quieter restaurant choices than what we found in Times Square. We wound up eating at the Pig N Whistle because A) it had seating for five and B) it was cutely decorated for Christmas. I’m such a sucker for lights. And a Christmas cocktail.

By 7pm, we had already eaten our body weights in New York food, so decided we’d walk a little more to see Times Square at night. There is nothing like it. Truly, nothing. While I was in awe and loving all the lights and people, both of my sons immediately felt overwhelmed. Our youngest even asked to be carried – and he is 9. So keep in mind, this speed isn’t for everyone. They loved the brightness and the vibe, but the intense amount of people and noise (and they said “the smell”) was not their jam. Out of respect for that, we kept it short and decided we’d come back during daytime hours instead. 

New York sidewalks in December are definitely FULL of people, but I’m not sure it’s much worse than any other time of year. OK, it’s worse, but we were very capable of all staying together with one parent at the front  of our pack and one at the back. Be sure to constantly check on them to make sure everyone stays together, especially if you have a Minnesota nice kiddo like my oldest. He’s not very good at elbowing through people like his sister so he would wind up behind a bit. Thank goodness he’s tall.

Exhausted and not yet adjusted, we decided to call it an early-ish evening and head back to the hotel by 8pm. We had big plans for the next day!

Day 2:

Our second day was going to be our “quintessential Christmas in NYC” day. We had purchased tickets to see the Rockettes (do this early!) and Blue Man Group, we were going to get pizza and cannolis, and visit a holiday market. Plus some other traditional must-do-in-Manhattan sites. So we got up early to make the most of our day. If you can find a hotel with complimentary continental breakfast, do it. Worth it to save money. If not, consider quick bagel stops or one of their gadzillion pastry or donut shops to grab n go to get to wherever you’re going. New York food ain’t cheap, but you can definitely find good quick deals on staples like bagels and pastries. Don’t underestimate the power (and savings) of a good bodega or street vendor.

Our morning started with a stroll past Bryant Park. It was perfectly covered in a light snow that must’ve fallen overnight. That painted the perfect morning picture for our quintessential-themed day. Because my sons weren’t too keen on seeing The Rockettes (FOOLS!), the boys split off and headed south via subway to Astor Place Theatre to see Blue Man Group, while my daughter and I headed to Radio City Music Hall to watch the greatest holiday show on earth!

Our walk was peaceful and we were able to take in the large ornaments, huge Christmas gifts, fake Santa Clauses, and a Magnolia Bakery cupcake (we had time before our show and it’s right next door. What’s a girl to do?).

The boys took the subway to the theater for their 10am show and grabbed pizza at Nuevo York afterwards for some giant slices. They said Blue Man Group was hilarious and entertaining and they even got to participate in the action. If you’ve never seen them, it’s great for kids! Note: This was their last month performing in NYC (sad) but they are still very much alive and well in other cities throughout the country. 

But for real – let’s talk The Rockettes. We purchased our tickets to see them months before our trip and they were already selling out – especially this close to Christmas. Our seats were in the balcony and I loved them! We stood in line to get in when it opened at 10am, and the line moved quickly once the doors opened. Through security and then into the gorgeous theater we went. I’d never stepped foot in Radio City Music Hall and it was so much fancier than I expected. The decorations were out of this world and everyone was dressed up in their shiny holiday dresses. We were wearing sweaters and jeans and our bulky winter coats. Oh well. Now we know for next time.

They serve snacks and drinks, sell souvenirs, and have many photo-worthy spots, but we were so excited for the show that we simply found our seats and settled in. I had NO idea the screen basically engulfed us, but it was a pleasant surprise. Let the show begin –

Everywhere you looked, there was something happening on the screen. And on stage was pure magic. The high kicks, the cute stories, the humor, the music, the DANCING! This is not just a show for women, dance-enthusiasts, or couples. The Rockettes are for EVERYONE. I swear it was one of the best events I’ve ever seen on stage and it will be until the day I die. My daughter agreed. We talked about it forever afterwards and both agreed we wanted to go back. If you can get tickets, go. Don’t question it. Just go.

Our winter coats came in handy afterwards when we had to walk the 40 minutes to meet the boys. We made some pit stops along the way because it’s not every day you encounter a pop-up sampler sale with no line that is selling – wait for it – skincare! You guys, I was traveling with my teenage daughter. This literally could not have been a more ideal situation. If you’ve never been to a sample sale, I recommend looking them up before heading on vacation. They have them for designers, boutiques, technology, makeup, athletic wear, sunglasses, literally anything. Ours was affordable and there was a small admission fee (I think it was like $5). We got our bags checked and grabbed a basket and spent an hour of vacation buying Sephora-like products for 1/4 the price. I think every one of my daughter’s friends got a Christmas gift from this sample sale. It’s as so much fun and made her day.

By the time we reached Bryant Park, we were hungry and decided, as just two of us, we could shimmy through the winter market much easier than if it were all five of us. So we got in line for a crepe, bought a candle, and use their bathrooms. Eventually, I swear we really did meet up with the boys again. We just took our time getting there.

We had been noticing that Bryant Park and Macy’s Holiday Square felt very packed when we would walk by them, so decided we would try Union Square Holiday Market once we met up with the guys. For some reason, it felt far more spacious and peaceful. We were able to get hot cocoa and a few bites to eat without fighting crowds or lines. Much more our speed.

Before our trip, we planned a timed entry to see The Friends Experience since we are all huge fans of the show. Because we had to be there by 3pm, we couldn’t stay at the market long, but I would recommend this one if you want something a little calmer. But no promises. New York is unpredictable.

It wasn’t too long a walk through the Flatiron District to The Friends Experience. The line was short and we had reservations so once our time was called, we showed our tickets and stood in a group with about a dozen other people.

Overall, our review of The Friends Experience was OK. It was awesome once we were allowed inside to peruse on our own time and take photos in the lookalike apartments, pose in Joey and Chandler’s chairs, see actual costumes worn on the show, get a pic with Monica’s turkey head and the PIVOT couch, and smile with a giant Hugsy the Penguin. The recreations of everything was pretty impeccable and that was super cool to see. We ended in Central Perk for some real coffee and bought a magnet in the gift shop. The whole experience took about an hour, but here’s the part I didn’t like – at times it felt like we were herded cattle being posed for photos they wanted you to buy at the end, and waiting in line so you could sit on the orange couch for a pic without any way to bypass the wait. A little kitschy and a lot pushy – but we got over it and really did enjoy the overall experience. 

But for an average cost of $60/ticket, I would say it wasn’t worth the money and I wouldn’t do it again. But to each their own. If you’re huge Friends fans, it’s cool to see. Just pricey, especially for a family of five.

After Friends, we took a subway ride to the World Trade Center to check out the Oculus. The Oculus is an impressive structure built in 2016 that holds a shopping mall, subway lines, and in the wintertime, an ice skating rink (indoors, which is a nice change from Central Park or Bryant Park’s outdoor chilled rinks). We did none of those things, but simply took in the architecture and the warmth.

We wanted to do an evening tour of the 9/11 Memorial Museum and had pre-purchased timed tickets to this as well. It sits right next to the World Trade Center, so worked out perfectly. When purchasing tickets, make sure the museum is open on the day you plan to visit, and look into Family Passes (they offer passes for four or five family members at a discounted rate). Individual tickets range from $24-36/person and kids under 6 are free. You’ll need to select the date and time you’ll be coming and do show up on time with your tickets ready. Again, you’ll go through security and then you’re in. 

This was a very different experience than the Friends Experience. The 9/11 museum is educational, inspirational, difficult, complicated, powerfully sad, and incredibly well done. Will kids understand it? Yes. Will kids appreciate it? Yes. Will kids have questions? Of course. Is that a good thing? I sure think so. 

Rooms are separated and some may be more visually intense than others so use your best judgement for your own family. It is not a museum for noise or running, but strollers are allowed and there is lots of accessibility for them. Our kids visited all the exhibits and did a lot of reading, listening, and observing. It was a lot, but it is important. The somber tone when leaving the museum is to be expected. Also, don’t forget to take in the outdoor portion as much as the indoor. The memorial fountain is stunning and respectfully done with flowers still being left on names regularly today. Our family spent about 90 minutes in the museum.

It was dark in NYC now so we looked up some good pizza and wound up grabbing a late dinner at Siena Pizza and Bakehouse – mostly because they sold cannolis. We got our pizza, bought cannolis to go, and headed to the subway to get back to the hotel before it got too late. Back at the hotel, we flipped the TV to (ironically) the movie Home Alone (yay!) and ate cannolis in bed. Not a bad way to end a day.

Speaking of subways, the New York subway system can feel intimidating, but I highly recommend you do it once, because once you do it once, you’ll understand it and be able to use it regularly. It is important if traveling with small kids whose legs take a lot longer to get from A to B, and with Google Maps, Apple Pay, and clear signage, the subway is WAY easier to navigate than it was even a decade ago. 

Entering the subway using payment on your phone is the most convenient tip I can offer. We have Apple Pay, you scan it one at a time and each person in your party walks through the turnstile after each scan. Prices are dirt, so no major worries there. Google Maps works half the time underground and there’s an actual subway option to choose from in the directions. No internet? There’s clear stop signage in each train and every stop is announced as you approach. So just know the stop you need before stepping onto the train, and listen. Our kids loved the subway and especially loved not having to huff it 2 more miles to get back to our hotel from the Financial District.

Day 3:

Our last day was the coldest day by far. This was definitely the day we packed a backpack full of scarves, gloves, and even face masks. They all got worn and I actually regretted not bringing more. Our plan this day was to stay warm by doing some indoor shopping, seeing Times Square during daylight, and getting to Central Park to at least say we saw it (freezing or not).

Times Square is so wild during the day – there’s always something going on, even on the coldest days. It’s just a thing you have to do when in NYC, so we did it. The kids wanted to get some souvenirs, buy clothes at H&M, see Uggs and Hershey and M&Ms and Legos. We ate Nathan’s Hot Dogs from a street vendor (note: street vendors directly in Times Square will charge you triple what you’d pay just a block away from it, so if possible, eat later). But the one MUST that I really wanted to see on this trip to New York was Stardust Diner.

Stardust Diner is a very popular restaurant in Times Square that is known for its live Broadway music being performed by servers and hosts as they serve and host you. Will the line be long? You bet. Was it worth it? For the entertainment, yes. For the food, meh. Due to the freezing temps, I volunteered to wait in the outside line while my family shopped the area and stayed warm. I think the line took about 45 minutes and we were there around 1pm for lunch on one of the coldest, but busiest, days of the year. Your full party must be present when they call you in, so I called my crew and we got seated in their downstairs space at a nice, warm back table. Our server was hilarious and had one heck of a singing voice! We knew a lot of their music and you can request songs as well (we wanted Wicked and we got Wicked). I took a selfie with one of the servers because I swear to you all right now at this moment – she is going to be a star. Mark my words.

After our tummies were full and our toes were warm, we headed back out to go to Rockefeller Center and either ice skate or just check out the area. The Rockefeller Tree is obviously a staple to see, but we didn’t ice skate because A) it was super busy and B) um, cold (have I mentioned that yet?). I imagine if you show up when the rink opens in the morning, it’d be much quieter than it was in the afternoon 3 days before Christmas.

Instead of skating, we decided to stand in line to visit FAO Schwartz. Yes, there was a line to get into the toy store. It stretched across the block, but was well-marked and only took about 30 minutes. Once we were in, it was overwhelming to say the least. I’m not sure I’d do it again, but the kids had never seen it and, I mean, it was Christmastime and Tom Hanks would’ve been SO disappointed if we hadn’t gone in. But if the kids hadn’t been with, I would’ve avoided the shoulder-to-shoulder people and long lines.

FAO does have a Jellycat Cafe now which was very popular. I believe you need a reservation or have to stand in line for it. We were unable to see it but I bet it’s cute! Be sure to keep a hand on young kids in here because it was easy to lose each other. Plenty of security and helpful workers though.

After the toy store, we were happy to be back outside walking towards Central Park. On the way, we visited the all-glass Apple Store and used their free and clean bathrooms. We got pics by the beautiful lit-up trees, ordered crepes from a street vendor, and saw the Louis Vuitton building. Our youngest also requested a photo in front of the Plaza Hotel because that’s where Kevin stayed when he got “Lost in New York.” Unfortunately, they don’t let you into the lobby unless you’re a guest, but it was still fun to see.

The other bucket list item I wanted was a Christmas bagel from Liberty Bagels. The kids happily obliged my request because we were all starving again (so. much. walking.). Those bagels were TRUE NYC. The cream cheese selection was awesome and the bagel itself? Damn.

By the time we actually got to Central Park’s entrance, it’s as dark, albeit it was barely 6pm. Walking Central Park in the dark in wintertime proved to be slightly difficult with hidden ice spots, and dark sidewalks. We saw the bridge that the Bird Lady from Home Alone 2 stood on, we waved at the brave, well-bundled ice skaters, and we made a tiny loop around the front end of the park. I just wanted the kids to see the massive size of the park, but really, it’s just so colorful in the daytime, so we decided to call it early.

The subway was our friend again for a short jaunt back to the hotel where we warmed up and chose a restaurant for dinner. Since it was our last meal, we let the kids choose. They found a funky Mexican restaurant called Tacombi, located right inside the Empire State Building. I couldn’t think of a better way to end vacation than a Mexican Lager, happy kids, heat, tacos, and chips and salsa. The walk back to the hotel was gorgeous with window displays down 34th Street. We took in the last of the lights and finally settled into our beds knowing we did New York up right at Christmas time.

Our flight left at 6am the next morning, so some quick packing and one Uber ride later, we were at La Guardia Airport ready to head home. 

After the trip, we asked the kids what THEIR advice would be during the holiday season in New York and these were their responses:

1. Get hot chocolate and crepes from a winter market
2. Do lots of shopping
3. See the big lit-up trees everywhere
4. Go to the Rockettes!
5. Eat dessert as many times as you can
6. Avoid Times Square at night
7. Bagels and pizza. Just bagels and pizza.
8. Visit the 9/11 Museum
9. (Over)pack warm clothes
10. Take the subway to save time and stay warm

Now, if you ask ME what my tips would be in a nutshell, here they are:

1. See it all. You can sleep when you’re dead.
2. Visit the Broadway Museum and/or see a show 
3. Try a slice of pizza from as many places as you can
4. Stand outside a stage door and wait for autographs (we got Josh Groban once – it can happen)
5. Go to the Rockettes!
6. Bring hand and feet warmers if it’s super cold. Pack a warm coat. 
7. Visit the 9/11 Museum
8. Get the cheese wheel pasta from the winter market
9. Choose a hotel near the hubbub so your “walking in the cold with kids” situation isn’t as dreadful
10. Make a list of your must-sees before vacation starts. Make reservations early. This is very important!